Whether you’re looking at new skincare products or considering an exfoliating facial, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a common ingredient used to reduce the appearance of fine lines, shallow wrinkles, skin texture and skin tone issues.
This ingredient also helps clean and open clogged pores, and may be included to alter the pH of a topical skincare product. While exploring all the acne and anti-aging treatments available, learn what AHAs do.
What Are AHAs?
Sourced from fruit, milk and sugarcane, alpha hydroxy acids have exfoliating properties that help shed part of the skin’s top later. This gradually smooths the appearance of enlarged pores, surfaces wrinkles and other prominent texture issues. AHAs also help unclog pores, which can assist with managing acne.
To lessen the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone, AHAs help detach the top layer of skin cells and encourages the skin below to produce new cells.
When Are AHAs Used?
Through these properties, alpha hydroxy acids can help address multiple skin concerns:
- Exfoliation, providing a gentler method than physical scrubs and brushes. This also better accommodates sensitive skin.
- Smoothing rough skin texture, including dry patches and keratosis pilaris. They reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by improving cellular turnover and encouraging long-term collagen and elastin production.
- Reducing the appearance of sun damage and skin discoloration, including age spots, melasma and other hyperpigmentation concerns.
- Managing acne by unclogging pores to decrease the formation of pimples.
- Increasing collagen production through long-term use, which can improve skin firmness and address more prominent signs of aging.
- Improving blood flow to the skin, which supplies the body’s cells with more nutrients and can diminish a dull, sallow appearance.
- Improving product absorption by removing the layer of dead skin cells that prevents your moisturizer from fully sinking in.
Types of AHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids include the following types:
- Lactic acid, sourced from dairy and fermented foods
- Glycolic acid, sourced from sugarcane
- Malic acid, from apples
- Citric acid, from citrus fruits
- Tartaric acid, from grapes
- Hydroxycaproic acid, from royal jelly
- Hydroxycaprylic, an animal byproduct
In skincare, lactic and glycolic acids are the most common. Product formulations, including for at-home and in-office use, include the following:
- Wash-off solutions, which are left on the skin for up to a minute before being rinsed off. This product may be in the form of an at-home peel or cleanser.
- Leave-on products, which are left on the skin and typically added to overnight creams and serums. Other options include face pads, toners, serums and moisturizers.
- AHA peels, which penetrate deeper into the skin yet are gentler than deeper peels and laser treatments. A higher-concentration solution is applied and washed off after 20 minutes.
Excluding in-office treatments, most AHA products use a 10 percent or lower concentration. To avoid over-exfoliating the skin, make sure you’re only using one AHA product at a time and avoid combining it with manual exfoliation methods.
Concerns With Using AHAs
Before adding alpha hydroxy acids to your skincare routine, be mindful of the following:
- Skin sensitivity. Similar to retinols, AHAs increase your risk for getting a sunburn, especially right after treatment. Be sure to apply sunscreen and wear a hat and other protective clothing when heading outdoors. Additionally, apply the product to a small portion of your skin to observe a reaction before applying it over a larger area.
- Never apply an AHA to an infant or child’s skin.
- Know the signs of overuse, including irritation, burning, dryness, flakiness and increased sensitivity, and stop to avoid further skin damage.
- AHAs can contribute to dark spots and changes in tone for people with darker complexions.
At Catherine & Company, we add AHAs to our facials to improve cellular turnover and uneven skin tone. If you’re looking to brighten your complexion and reduce signs of aging, schedule an appointment with us today!